Katsuya by Starck

Fancy Japanese in a mall
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Time Out Says

Would you travel to a mall just to eat in a restaurant there? We definitely would if it offered an outstanding experience.

Our meal in the newly-opened Katsuya at Yas Mall is good, but we wouldn’t go as far as saying it is outstanding.

Service is solid, with staff acting swiftly and efficiently – an absolute must in a venue that’s likely to have a high turnover of diners every day. The food is good, too, with a fairly comprehensive array of Japanese starters, mains and salads.

Some of the meat and fish dishes cost upwards of Dhs200, which considering they’re wagyu and black cod, makes sense, but we can’t see ourselves splashing out often on that kind of plate while we’re sitting looking at Adventure HQ across the way.

Prices for starters are about Dhs60 on average. We go for the creamy rock shrimp and edamame beans. Both are safe choices, but each more than warrants being ordered. The prawns maintain their crispiness despite the slightly spicy sauce that’s slathered over them and the soya beans are steamed perfectly with a good amount of salt to pucker your lips. There’s no microwaving going on here.

A couple of plates of sushi rolls are up next. We struggle to choose from the selection. There’s a fair amount of choice and some recommendations from staff wouldn’t go amiss. If you’re shy, some house specialities are highlighted on the menu.

Does this make the other options less good? It doesn’t seem so, as the spicy tuna rolls are filled with a punchy portion of the fatty fish. The salmon lemon roll has a lovely zingy citrus flavour running through it thanks to yuzu and lemon, and a good crunch from asparagus in the middle. We’re less keen on the cooked salmon tempura running through it, which has dried a bit, but the sashimi across the top is delightful.

So, should you make the trip to check out Katsuya by Starck? Maybe the lure of a Phillipe Starck-designed restaurant is enough to get you to overlook the more established likes of Zuma and Tori No Su in the capital.

You can eat at some of the city’s best Japanese joints for the same prices, so while Katsuya offers the chance to have a genuinely good meal at Yas Mall, we don’t think we’d go out of our way especially for it.

WHAT IS IT...
Fancy Japanese in a mall

WHY GO...
For a classy shopping pitstop

26 Mar 2019

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Details

11:00 AM to 11:00 PM
Saturday: 11:00 AM to 11:00 PMSunday: 11:00 AM to 11:00 PMMonday: 11:00 AM to 11:00 PMTuesday: 11:00 AM to 11:00 PMWednesday: 11:00 AM to 11:00 PM
Show number 02 418 2481
Abu Dhabi, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates

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