Time Out Says
On our latest visit, the dining room, bar area and terrace outside are almost empty. In fact, the entrance to the venue, from Yas Marina is eerily quiet. No matter, as the ebullient welcome from the friendly floor manager helps warm the atmosphere instantly. Between the staff, we’re kept company throughout the meal (some might find it a little overbearing, but on this occasion we find it just the right side of attentive).
The menu is split between Japanese and Italian dishes. We’ve never felt like going for any of the Japanese choices, instead focusing on what the brand is known for.
What we love about the food here is how simple and traditional is it. There are few twists and extras, this is good, honest Italian cooking using top ingredients and letting them shine.
A fennel and avocado salad uses the contrasting textures of the two main ingredients well. Crisp shavings of fennel are whipped among creamy avocado and it’s perfect. A steak tartar is more finely chopped then you’re likely to find elsewhere, but it makes for rich, satisfying mouthfuls every time. Stick it on the crispy bread and the textures work brilliantly.
An aubergine parmigiana and pink beetroot and ricotta gnocchi are as homely and moreish as it gets. They’re
both wonderfully comforting.
If the dining room had more of buzz, Cipriani would be perfect.
The bill (for two)
1x fennel salad Dhs79
1x steak tartar Dhs125
1x parmigiana Dhs115
1x gnocchi Dhs111
1x large water Dhs30
Total (incl. service charge) Dhs506
The bottom line
Top food that deserves a better vibe.
By Time Out Abu Dhabi staff | 08 Nov 2017
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