Etoiles

This is what used to be known as Embassy, and those that chose to visit directly before and after the name change would have seen very little difference 2 Reviews

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This is what used to be known as Embassy, and those that chose to visit directly before and after the name change would have seen very little difference. The evening menu here has been consistently good for some time, but remains trumped by the Friday brunch. It’s decidedly British in theme; it’s called Sunday Roast for a start, and all the usual suspects are there, like roast beef, prawn cocktail, and sherry trifle.

It hasn’t just relied on memories of ‘mother’s cooking’ to see it through, however. The smoked salmon eggs Benedict was akin to an oil painting, constructed with precision and dexterity. Lightly boiled – rather than poached – eggs flood their yolk, only to be met by a dam of deep-pink salmon and soft English muffin, with hollandaise sauce adding a rich but subtle tang. The foie gras was just as good, maintaining a light, buttery texture and avoiding a heavy pâté consistency.

Those in search of true traditional British may fancy the roast rib of beef, Yorkshire pudding and fondant potato, but the stuffed saddle of lamb is also a sound choice. Accompanied by roast gravy and perfectly cooked cauliflower, broccoli, carrots and green beans, the meat is thick but still delightfully pink in the centre.

With sherry trifle, date pudding with caramel sauce and butterscotch ice cream, and a graceful adaptation of cheese and biscuits, the desserts are real choice spoilers. If you can manage without a bottle of champagne for an extra Dhs200 per person, brunch here won’t be too harsh on your wallet. The entire experience will be worth it with or without the bubbles. The regular menu, through the rest of the week is just as worthy, but the brunch really must be sampled. Standards for all you can eat treats in the city, and indeed the entire UAE, have just gone up a notch.

• Previous reviews
  • 22 December,2009- reviewed by Time Out Abu Dhabi staff
  • 01 March,2009- reviewed by Gareth Clark

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