Though no longer the best Indian in the city, this former award-winner still hits the mark 5 Reviews
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Like all old-timers, this former 2006 award-winner has picked up a few eccentricities. First and most bafflingly, there’s the TV screen in the corner, looping episodes of Mr. Bean ad infinitum. Then there’s the menu. It’s a beast, featuring so many pages that you could happily batter a man to death with it. In reality, though, much of it could be done away with – starting with the ‘tandushi’, an ill-advised fusion of tikka-spiced meat rolled in rice and seaweed that we’re amazed hasn’t seen the Japanese army storming the beaches of Chennai.
More traditional dishes are, thankfully, where Zari Zardozi’s strengths lie. Curries are light on grease and big on rich, creamy sauces, sporting subtle flavours that make the tender chunks of meat sing. Hardly a wise lifestyle choice, but chances are you’ll be back soon enough. With a tighter focus on the things it does well, Zari Zardozi could well storm back through the ranks and show the new boys who’s boss. But even with Rowan Atkinson pratting around in your peripheral vision, it’s still a great place for a satisfying curry.
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